Last night our albergue was first class. Hotel Miguelin at La Mesa is really not too much further on from Berducedo but oh the beds, the showers and the dinner were worth it!
We thought today would be a shorter walk and although we expected it to be tough we decided to linger a little longer and left around 8:30 after a leisurely breakfast.
We knew it would rain today. We had hoped for fine weather but I took solace in the fact that the albergue still said it would be OK for us to cross the mountains via the “hospitals” route. This stage is sometimes referred to as the king of the stages. It’s majestic and wild and isolated. It’s one of the most scenic stages of all the Ways to Santiago. It passes through high, uninhabited areas with exposure to unpredictable weather. This stage shouldn’t be taken lightly and we needed to be well equipped with water and supplies, and with the right equipment for rain and cold.
Yesterday a Pilgrim friend mentioned my blog contained rather more flippins than usual. So I’ll just state from the outset that today was very different.
We had our own little room last night but shared breakfast with the four Spanish guys and the young German couple. We forgot to get cash as we walked out of town, which was rather stupid of us but at this point in the morning we were oblivious.
Last night we never wandered far from our albergue. We went from the albergue to the hotel and back again but that was only 100m so I guess it doesn’t count.
I slept well but Gerry says it was just OK? But hey… I’m feeling good. We had breakfast with our fellow pilgrims… As with last night’s dinner we are Swedish, Brazilian, Italian, Spanish and us. We ate and sorted our bags and hit the road. It had rained overnight but had stopped by the time we left.
Last night we wandered back into the town centre for dinner in the main plaza. We were joined by a fellow Pilgrim from Germany and we talked about life and family and politics and Brexit. It was a lovely evening and once we’d finished we said our goodbyes and went off to our albergues. Back in our room we met our new room mates, charming ladies from Germany and Hong Kong. After chatting and exchanging tips on where to stay and eat and visit we settled down to sleep… And sleep I did!
The Camino Primitivo starts from the Cathedral. A plaque indicates the direction for the Primitivo and the Norte routes. It roughly translates as
In the beginning of the 9th Century, from this basilica of Saint Salvador, The Asturian monarch Alfonso II The Chaste, began the first pilgrimage to Compostela to view the tomb of James, and there, he founded in his honor the first basilica.
The Primitivo is considered the first or original pilgrim route to the tomb of the Apostle. The Cathedral in Santiago was founded by King Alfonso following his first pilgrimage.
Last night’s hotel was fabulous, really if you are ever in the area go and stay. It is off the camino but there was a regular bus and the walk back this morning was so easy. The beds were so comfy, and bath towels you could wrap around you like a huge fluffy sarong, sheets of crisp cotton and even bathrobes and slippers. And the breakfast that would rival a parador. And he packed us a little picnic as a bonus. And they gave us a bottle of juice and water and tiny jars of local honey. And all for just the 45 euros inclusive of all. It was a little gem of a hotel! Its called Casona del Conde and its in Norena… Fabulous!
We had already decided last night that we would skip the hotel breakfast and instead get on the road early. We were the first hotel as you walked into town but more than a kilometre from the centre and the church. Instead we set our alarm for 6.30am and returned to a little bar that we new would be open. Happy with our coffee and breakfast we were walking by 7:50, just as the sky was getting light.
Last night we ventured into town to sample the delights of Colunga. Its a busy little town, a nice enough church in the centre and stunning views all around but it has the feel of a place that might have seen better days. Continue reading
Then We Walked 