Cold and Walls

Day 2 Porto to Vairão

Last nights alburgue was really lovely and I was surprised by how many pilgrims… 8 or 9 I think?  It was a little chilly but I slept very well.

There are a couple of ways out of Porto… Along the river to the coast or follow the central route from the cathedral.  We choose the latter and walked yesterday from the cathedral to the alburgue and then planned to continue today but… Storm Cecilia was due to arrive here at around midday so we decided to take the metro to the edge of the city which saved us we thought about 10 kilometres.  (we misjudged that though and didn’t save as much as we hoped)

We stopped for coffee and Sheila sampled a Pastel de Nata before heading off onto the camino and the yellow arrows. Rain threatened all morning but apart from the odd shower it really wasn’t so bad.  The sky wasn’t as blue as when we arrived yesterday but it wasn’t raining so I was counting my blessings.

The walking however was a bit dull.  We seemed to follow the same road that just meandered on and on edged by the rather magnificent wall.  Old stone walls flanked both sides of the cobbled road and as cars zoomed by there really wasn’t much room to manoeuvre out of the way.  I’m grateful that it was Sunday morning as I guess the roads were more quiet than a weekday.

 

Every now and then we could smell cows or hear sheep but we never saw them from behind our wall.

On we walked stopping for more coffee and dodging showers.  From our road we could see distant fields and forests and church spires but we never seemed to leave that road.  I have to say it really was a tad dull.  But the rain held off.

We’d planned to go to Vilarinho but about 2km before we arrived the heavens opened.  We saw a sign for the albergue in the old monestary at Viarao and decided that was a better option.

It’s a beautiful old building with a 1000 years of history but what it doesn’t have is heating.  We were welcomed by a wonderful man from Brazil… Wearing his coat, gloves and a woollen hat… This should have given us a few clues.  However he is a wonderful host and he gave us a tour and a history lesson and directed us to a cafe for a late lunch.  When we returned he made us tea and chatted with us for an hour.

We returned to our beds and showered and sorted our things for the morning.  I’m currently wearing all of my clean clothes and I’m in bed with three blankets and I still can’t feel my toes. It’s going to be a long cold night… Such is life on the camino! I Hope you’re all feeling warmer than we are!

Ps my fitbit says 29km which I think is more than we walked but it’s usually quite accurate… I’m left wondering if we took the metro the wrong way!

 

 

It Seemed Like A Good Idea…

Day 1 – Bordeaux to Porto

A few weeks ago when we finished walking The Primitivo and the sun was shining and all was great in our world, I returned home from Santiago and pondered… where next?  And when?  I had this mad idea.  Well, not mad exactly.  Let’s call it more impromptu.  There were cheap flights to Porto.  Porto is meant to be nice later in the year isn’t it?  I was free from the 22nd November?  25€ return for a flight!  It would be mad not to consider it right?

It seemed like a really good idea a few weeks ago.  And so I’m in Porto and the weather forecast for the next two weeks is wall to wall rain.  I’m travelling with a friend from home in France; and rain or no rain Sheila is really excited!  Well ok… To be honest so am I!  I’d rather not have the rain but heyho.  I’m in Porto.  I’m in the pilgrim albergue and I have two weeks.  I’m hoping to walk the Central Route to Santiago and maybe, if the weather is kind, we’ll walk the Variente as well.

We got a taxi from the airport to the cathedral.  We got our credentials stamped, paid three euros to visit inside and as the sun was dropping in the sky we wandered back through town in search of a Decathlon and then the albergue.  We found both eventually!

The rain held off and we even had blue sky.   The albergue is surprisingly busy and we’re ready to start… Although my fitbit it says I’ve walked 15.3km since I left home!

So welcome to my impromptu camino… I hope you enjoy the journey!

 

Another End

Day 17 O Pedrouzo – Santiago de Compostela

So we arrived.  We had an early breakfast and started walking at 6:50. We knew about the new ticket system in Santiago and I wanted to be sure we arrived in time and I also just wanted a little more time in Santiago… So we set off.

We don’t rush but it’s fair to say our stride and pace has improved over the last few weeks.  The kilometers just fell away and we reached Santiago Airport in no time. Onwards past familiar landmarks we walked.  I’m always surprised by how few pilgrims take the slight detour to visit the pilgrim statues at Mont Gozo.  Why walk so far and not? We wandered down, gazed across the city at those famous spires before continuing on. 

 

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Neil Sedaka

Day 14 Lugo – Ferreira

Last night we had a lovely dinner in Lugo with our Swedish chums.  It was Kjell’s birthday on the 7th and Ger’s today so it felt appropriate.  We found a restaurant in the old town near the cathedral and tucked into enormous steaks washed down with a fine rioja… A fine time indeed!  After this feast we wandered back to the albergue listening to a band playing behind the cathedral; Lugo was in party mode but we were off to bed!

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Yesterday…

Day 13 O Cadavo – Lugo

So our albergue last night was really lovely.  The shower was great and the lady so helpful but… Maybe it was because the bed was small… Or because the mattress was hard… Or the pillow not right… Or the room too stuffy… Or perhaps the noise from the albergue loo above us was a tad noisy… Or perhaps  the emergency exit light above our door was too bright… But for some reason we just never slept very well.

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Easy (Like….)

Day 11 Grandas de Salime – Fonsagrada

Last nights accommodation was OK but I think we’d been spoilt by Miguelin!  We did however have a really wonderful pilgrims menu in town before retiring.  All our gang seemed to have walked on so there weren’t many familiar faces, but we hope we’ll catch up by Lugo.

We set the alarm for early as we wanted to be on the road at first light, which for us was 8:05.  It seems that we are still in the mist belt. I have to say I’m getting a bit bored with the grey now and I’m hoping it blows away soon.

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