Yesterday we had planned to stop at around 24km but there were no rooms at the inn so we had to walk on. Even in the centre of Villavante the albergue was full but we had heard of another option just outside town.
A converted and renovated Mill… So we headed off in the hope that they would have space. Lucky pilgrims that we were there was no one else there… Or we were the first. We were greeted by Mercedes and her husband as if we were old friends. She ushered us in and made us cold drinks and snacks whilst she prepared our rooms.
This is not an albergue but for 45 euros we had drinks and snacks, a beautiful twin room with fabulous hot showers, our laundry was washed and dried, and they cooked a fabulous dinner of predominantly produce from their garden. It also included a wonderful breakfast with toast and the best blackberry jam I think I have ever tasted. If you are ever in the area I strongly recommend a stay at Moulin Golouche (?) not sure of the spelling but it is on TripAdvisor… One of the nicest places we’ve stayed!
I also met up again with Rita and Max… The Australian couple who shared my dorm with Moose! We had fun reminiscing… They also warned me Moose is behind us now as he stayed an extra day in Leon.
Of course nothing for us is simple and so it went that Teresa woke in the night to the sound of running water. Our bathroom taps had been turned on full ! It was also odd that although I kept turning off the bathroom light… Every time we went back in the light was on. And even though breakfast was at 7.30 we woke at 6.00 due to the loud scratching noises coming from the wardrobe! There was of course nothing there when we looked.
Regardless of things that went bump in the night we loved this place and we were sorry to wave goodbye in the morning. Even sorrier when we saw the sky and the rain! Today was a poncho day… Do you reckon my poncho resembles a pantomime horse?
Today was a short day… Just as well as it rained and it rained and it rained. We took the scenic route again but as we’re now climbing again the paths were wet and muddy and slippery.
We eventually landed at around 3.00 pm. Astorga is not at all what I was expecting… We did a tour of the cathedral and the museum before grabbing a bit to eat in the wine and tapas bar… Although as usual we went with the pilgrims meal. We’ve noticed more and more that prices are rising. Pilgrims meal started at 10 euro and is now 14… I guess the closer we get to Santiago the more expensive it gets.
Tomorrow we’re climbing all day… Heading upwards towards the highest points of the camino… And I just bought a sleeping bag so my pack is now 800g heavier! And the man at the cathedral told us that there is more rain tomorrow… And maybe the next day… And Sunday!
P.s… We’re leaving later now we’re back in the hills and it’s cooler. We left earlier before because it was so hot in the mesata and we just wanted to finish before 2.00 pm… It was hard to believe at times that it was October! We reckon now if we leave around 7.30 ish the sky is light enough for us… So worry not folks we’ll be sensible xx
Then We Walked 
Colleen!!!!!!!!!! Bisous galore xxxxxxxxxx
I've just found you. I'm so happy. I have read all your blogs – it's taken me two hours. I listened to your recommendation by Philip Glass as I read them.
Amazing blog. Beautiful photography. Eloquent words. Your reports made me wince (“blister with silk”), made me smile (Cleese/Barker/Corbett), made me giggle (“moose”) and made me laugh out loud (“shart”).
I realise that you can't fathom a way of replying but I want to ask you loads of questions. So I shall ration my questions to one per blog…
Today's question that I would love you to answer next time you write is: Do you lose weight on the Camino? [Now I wonder why I am asking that?………]
I'm enjoying the comments too from Mandy (happy first anniversary in France), Therese (with pearls of wisdom), Gerry (wish my hubby had such a lovely nickname for me as yours had for you) et alia.
Keep going, Colleen. I am SOOOOO proud of you.
Oodles of love, Cathy xxx
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Lovely views even in the rain. Is Villavante the nice old town on the river with the longest roman bridge in spain/the world? I was told to walk through and stop at that hostel I think – I have no photos of that bit because before Astorga I got soaked, camera and all and have only my camino passport to remind me and no Dave with his diary. Reminder to you – put the camera in a plastic bag in a waterproof pocket under the poncho – i kept mine in a pocket (slim sanyo digital) and it was completely ruined after three hours of heavy rain as I struggled on to get to the hostel as quickly as possible. Anyway your hostel sounds like it was the same as they grew all their own vegetables on a plot about a mile away – and it was round the corner from a weird Bazaar shop which sold everything – looks like the one you are standing in front of in the 7th photo with the giant rucksack.
Derek has got onto your blog I see – now he is back in England – I expect he took good photos so I am waiting to see those too…. memories, memories – must be getting old.
Anyhow, young girl, keep trotting along, stop it raining and keep your pecker up – two peaks to climb and you'll be there.
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Hi Colleen, reading the blog with interest although it`s a pity that we did not get to walk together as I am sure that I would have enjoyed your company and in particular your sense of humour.
Cheers
Derek
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Loving the red poncho Colleen but the mud doesn't look inviting. Cinders
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The sleeping bag is because it's gotten so cold.
Go neddy xxx
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Oh Colleen the mud looks terrible… Yes the panto horse I can see the likeness..lol.x
The cathedral is stunning!!
Glad you had a good night and that you are leaving slightly later when not quite so dark..
Have a good day tomorrow. ( why a new sleeping bag? Xxx
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