40. Into the Woods

THEY shut the road through the woods
Seventy years ago.
Weather and rain have undone it again,
And now you would never know
There was once a path through the woods
Before they planted the trees:
It is underneath the coppice and heath,
And the thin anemones.
Only the keeper sees
That, where the ring-dove broods
And the badgers roll at ease,
There was once a road through the woods

Last night we stayed in the little albergue in Campobecceros… we were joined by Chris and three French girls who are walking 40km days as they don’t have enough holiday to go slower… they left this morning at 6.30 so would have walked the first 2 hours in the dark.

We arrived and did our chores and relaxed a little before heading off to a little bar for dinner.  We had prebooked dinner but had no idea what to expect. In the event we had a feast.  We started with cured ham and local cheese and fabulous fresh bread… then hot lentil soup… then a plate of beautiful sliced tomatoes drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with a little salt… then a plate of roasted chicken pieces and roasted pork ribs… served with an omelette with more chicken… and finally baked apple for desert… oh and of course a bottle of local wine.  What a feast.  We tried our best to eat it but there was just too much.  It was fresh and delicious home cooking at its best… all for the princely sum of 9 euros.

We walked back in the moonlight just as the goats were being herded into the barns under the houses.  This is wolf country so I guess they won’t leave them out at night.

We returned to the bar at 8.00am this morning for coffee and toast.   You pass it as you walk through the village as its on the camino… Partway up the main street… well worth a visit.

Today’s walk was only a little up before rather a lot of down.  The landscape has changed again and we were leaving the high mountains behind us and headed into pine forests.  We watched the sun rise before meandering our way through a couple of deserted villages.  We spotted a few young deer and more wolf poop… it is a little disconcerting, walking through these woods knowing that there could be wolves out there watching us.  But I don’t think there are any records of pilgrim attacks so I guess we’re safe.

A few kilometres further on and we walked up a stoney path and out onto the downward section of today’s walk… 10 kilometres of down.  At the top it was pretty high.  I decided it would be better for me to walk on the rock side of the path… giving me maybe 2 metres between me and the edge.  All in all I was remarkably calm but my heart was in my mouth a few times… and I thanked my lucky stars that we had a beautiful  sunny day and not wind and rain… and I thought of the French girls doing this in the dark!

All morning the song in my head was Lovely Day by Bill Withers.  And it was lovely.  From the misty sunrise to the pine forest and the amazing views… it was another great camino walk.

We arrived at Laza at around 1.00.  Today was only 15 km and we’d taken our time and stopped for a couple of boots-off breaks.  We had to stop off at the offices of the Protection Civil for the albergue key.  An old lady almost took me by the hand to show us where… more kindness from strangers.

The officers that registered us were beautiful… sorry but it has to be said.  I would guess they were in their mid thirties and if the Protection Civil ever did a calender my guess is both of our guys would be in it.  We completed the forms as slowly as we could but in the end we had to leave.

We stopped off en route for a wonderful lunch… ensalada mixta and salmon.  As luck would have it Mr October was in the bar as we paid so we exchanged a few more greetings before another goodbye.

The albergue here is rather posh…  very new and comfortable.  We are joined by Chris (our German friend) and Tim… another Aussie which has brought a huge grin to Maggie’s face.  The girls are in the RED dorm and the boys in the BROWN.. what luxury.

Tomorrow we have another huge hill to climb and another big desent… but Gerry will be in Burgos as we finish walking and just one day away from us… and we’ll be walking our last weekend on the Via… where has the time gone?


You can’t stay in your corner of the Forest waiting for others to come to you. You have to go to them sometimes

I had an email from my fundraising page… the page is closed now as I only had 120 days…but in that time I’ve managed to raise £830 for two very special charities… you can find out more on my fundraising link. 

Whilst the page is closed I am still very happy to take donations… and I’m also still very happy to take your dreams and wishes to St James or Muxia… your can email me or message me and I’ll send you details of how to donate… all and any support is always most welcome.

7 thoughts on “40. Into the Woods

  1. Well done again and good luck for the big climb.
    we couldn’t donate as it was closed! so send us the details and ????? english cheque or french cheque??????
    great views of “a lovely day”

    How about some Brassens – – – – a one-voice ballad with guitar.

    Avec une beche a l’epaule,
    Avec a la levre un doux chant,
    Avec a l’ame un grand courage,
    Il s’en allait trimer aux champs.

    Courage pour demain!!!!


  2. Hello Colleen another wonderful read, of your fabulous journey, once again thank you for sharing this amazing adventure. Enjoy this next chapter of your journey with the beloved Gerry….
    And I shall tap in to next few episodes while staying at your house.
    You’ve have done incredibly well and covered so much ground seen some amazing sights and experienced so many different things good and bad…. Well done both of you!!!
    Not much further now…..xxxxx

    Liked by 1 person

  3. Colleen- your meal in Campobecceros sounds delicious. Can you remember the name of the bar? There is a wonderful place in Laza to eat also. They do a ‘worker size’ menu del dia. It’s upstairs above a little bar (on RHS of main drag fwhen you come from the albergue.
    Enjoy your climb to Albergeria and I’m sure you’ll add another ‘shell’ to the roof of the wee bar there. xx Grace

    Liked by 1 person

    • Sorry I don’t remember the name but it was on the camino. .. you walk by it on the way to the albergue or out of town… on the left as you go up the hill.
      We found that bar in Laza… Fabulous food 🙂 xx


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