Day 11 | Arcade to Combarro

Last night’s supper was superb. We walked along the water, stopped for a cold drink before seeking a restaurant. We found one in a little back street which according to Google had reasonable reviews. We asked if we could eat now (7.00pm is early for dinner in Spain)… yes yes of course came the reply and we were escorted inside. The lady of the house spoke only Spanish but somehow we conversed… if Gerry’s mum had a Spanish counterpart, this senora would have been her… oh she was wonderful.

Her husband also had a birthday today but he was 78… she said Gerry was just a baby. She took his hand and showed him the fresh crab, just delivered and together they choose one. He ordered fresh oysters to start, followed by crab… and a bottle of local white wine. Senora was suitably impressed with his choice. I ordered steak… she seemed OK with that too.

Day 9 | Tui to Mos

We had a nice stay in Tui. For dinner we enjoyed a few Tapas in a bar opposite the cathedral; the padron peppers were very nice indeed. We’ve lost an hour crossing over to Spain so decided on an early night. However, Tui had different plans as the town seemed to be in party mode. Our room was above a restaurant and it was busy. As well as the bustle from downstairs there was also an occasional burst of distant crowds chanting… it sounded almost like a football chant? And to add to the general cacophony the bedroom doors had automatic keypads. Everytime you arrived and started to enter your PIN a (loud) automated voice would say “Door Locked”… followed by a series of loud beeps… followed by “Door Unlocked”. This happened every time someone returned to their rooms and it felt like there were a lit of rooms! I know I was still awake at midnight as I heard the chimes and I don’t think either of us slept well.

Day 8 | Pencene to Tui

Last nights hotel was yet another gem. It was a shame we felt so out of sorts because it was fabulous. The room was spotlessly clean and big and bright and airy. It was a room for three so again great value for three sharing. The garden was lovely and there was even a pool. We had use of the kitchen and lounge and seating inside and out but sadly we didn’t feel in the mood. We had a light salad for dinner, chatted with another pilgrim from Chicago before turning in for the night.

We slept. We clearly both needed to sleep. We woke around 7.00 and Gerry made us both tea. We both felt better today. My head still felt fuzzy but my sickness and pain had gone and Gerry felt the same. He said at one point in the forest yesterday he was trying to figure how he would get me out as I looked so pale and clammy. Neither of us had been well so it was a good job we were able to keep walking.

We ate a hearty breakfast today. I had my GF crackers with homemade marmalade and local honey followed by banana and fresh melon… and several cups of tea. Gerry had the same but with fresh warm rolls and ham and cheese. For even bigger appetites there was also cereals, yogurts, cake, biscuits and fruit… all included! The cost for the room was 60 euro, breakfast was included and it was fabulous. We would come again to Casa de Capela… stay here! You won’t regret it.

Day 7 | Ponte de Lima to Pencene

This blogs is a little late but that’s because there’s always a story when we walk the camino… and this walk is no different!

Our Casa in Ponte de Lima was really excellent… we’d thoroughly recommend it.  We had breakfast from the remains of yesterday’s shopping and had plenty for a packed lunch.  Indeed we ended up taking a rather lot with us that morning.  We left later than we had planned because Gerry was feeling a little off; nothing major but he wasn’t 100%.  So we took our time and had an extra cup of tea.

The clock struck 9.00 as we walked away from Ponte de Lima.  It was raining and I felt a twinge of sadness.  The last time I walked here  it had rained almost everyday… so much so that the trail was lost under water where rivers had broken their banks and we had to find alternative paths to walk.  I was hoping for sunshine this time but instead we had clouds.  So we left town feeling under par and I felt cheated by the weather… I also started to feel a little ill myself.

Day 6 | Vila Praia do Ancora to Ponte de Lima

Sadly dinner last night was not as good as we’d hoped.  Gerry had imagined a fabulous fish supper over looking the sea but of course it was Sunday night and our choices were very limited.  In the end we settled on a small restaurant a few streets back from the coast (actually it was all we could find).  Gerry chose Bachalau… the celebrated Portuguese salted cod.  My choices were limited to a pork chop.  We ordered a glass of wine and a side salad, which was lucky as they were the most enjoyable parts of the meal.  Poor Gerry missed his seafood dinner yet again. 

We returned to our hotel, the Meira.  It’s just a hop, skip and a jump from the seafront and the camino.  It was wonderful and we’d thoroughly recommend a night here.  Our room overlooked the pool, but it was quiet and comfortable… Great shower too! 

Day 5 | Viana do Castelo to Vila Praia de Ancora

Neither of us slept well. Our bed was lined with those little granite cobbles that we’ve been walking on today and the pillows felt like they’d been stuffed with the remnants of yesterdays bread. To add to our comfort there was a very handy light feature on the headboard, just immediately behind the pillow. Everytime Gerry turned over all the lights would come on and we’d wake with a start. In the end he said he was too afraid to move so lay on top the granite trying to shift his weight around when his hips felt too sore. In short… it wasn’t the best night we’ve had.

Earlier in the evening we’d planned on going to an Indian restaurant for dinner. It was 900m from the hotel but as we walked the rain came down and the wind was still howling so we jumped into a Chinese restaurant instead. It was an OK meal but not as nice as we’d hoped and the owner was way more interested in the Brighton vs Arsenal match on the TV than two cold pilgrims.

Returning to the hotel we watched the end of a James Bond movie before sleep (obviously using that term loosly). In fairness to the hotel, it was a great location, a lovely building, helpful staff and the room was spotless… and the shower was magnificent. There weren’t many gluten free choices at breakfast but I carry a small GF loaf and had this with some of their homemade quince jam and a few slices of melon… Ger said the croissants were very good too. Apart from the bed, Hotel Jardim was actually very nice. However I would feel a bit heavy headed all day.

Day 4 | Povoa de Varzim to Viana do Castelo (27km)

It was raining when we left the restaurant last night and was raining as we walked out of town this morning. It was going to be a coat day, I guess if we walk in October we have to expect some wet weather. It was just as well today took is away from the coast and inland along the coastal camino (we’ve been walking the littoral camino sticking to the beaches).

As we left the beaches behind Gerry told me about his horrible dream. He said he was falling and a voice whispered to him unless you wake up you’ll fall down to hell. He said in his dream he tried so hard to wake but kept falling… until suddenly he woke with a start. Oddly he also said I had a bit of a night terror a little later and cried out in my sleep… although I have no recollection of this. Anyway I told Gerry we had to stop at a church and I’d say a little prayer for him.

Day 3 | Povoa de Varvim to Esposende (23km)

Last night’s room picnic was a big success with plenty left over for our picnic today. Our hotel included breakfast so I also managed to stow away a hard boiled egg for my sandwich; I didn’t feel too guilty as I took my own gluten free bread for my toast.

We had a really lazy start to our day and we heard the clocks chime 9.00 as we left. I don’t think I’ve ever started a camino day so late but it felt wonderful. The hotel was just a few hundred metres from the coast so it was a mere hop skip and a jump and we were there.